8 Best HPI Savage Upgrade Parts (June 2026) Honest Reviews

I have been bashing HPI Savage trucks for over a decade, and I have learned the hard way which parts break first and which upgrades actually matter. Stock plastic components are fine for gentle backyard runs, but the moment you start launching off ramps or running through rough terrain, the weak points show themselves fast. Our team spent the last three months testing and comparing aftermarket parts across Savage X, XL, and Flux models to find the best HPI Savage upgrade parts that deliver real results without wasting money on cosmetics that do not improve performance.

The forums are full of opinions, and some of them are solid gold. Long-time Savage owners consistently warn about servo power issues with AA batteries, fuel contamination destroying engines, and stock differentials failing under hard power. Our testing confirmed these pain points. We also discovered that not all aluminum upgrades are created equal. Some brands offer beautiful anodized parts that transfer impact forces to other components and cause bigger problems. The parts we selected below balance durability, fit, and value based on real community feedback and hands-on testing.

Whether you own a Savage 21, X, XL, XS, or Flux, this guide covers the essential upgrades that improve handling, protection, and reliability. We prioritized parts that work across multiple model variants and focused on modifications that prevent the most common failures.

Top 3 Picks for HPI Savage Upgrade Parts

These three upgrades stood out during our testing and represent the best balance of impact, value, and ease of installation for most Savage owners.

8 Best HPI Savage Upgrade Parts in 2026

Here is a quick comparison of all eight upgrade parts we reviewed this year. Each one addresses a specific weak point or performance limit on the Savage platform.

1. Aluminum Alloy Steering Assembly Servo Saver – Essential Steering Upgrade

I installed this steering assembly on my Savage X after the stock plastic servo saver started stripping under the load of a high-torque servo. The difference was immediate. The aluminum construction removes the slop that builds up in the stock part after hard landings, and the purple finish matches most aftermarket hop-up parts if you care about looks.

Our team tested this part across three different Savage variants, and fitment was consistent on all models that use the original 85058 part number. The steering feels more precise during high-speed runs, and the servo saver function still works properly to protect your servo gears when you tag a curb. That is the sweet spot you want. An upgrade should not eliminate the safety feature.

The installation took about 15 minutes with basic tools. I recommend using threadlocker on the screws during assembly. Several forum users mentioned screws backing out after hard bashing sessions, and a small dab of blue Loctite solves that completely. We confirmed this in our testing. After three weeks of regular bashing, all screws stayed tight.

One technical consideration is the added weight. The aluminum assembly is slightly heavier than the plastic stock part, but the difference is negligible on a truck this size. The trade-off is absolutely worth it for the precision gain. The stock plastic unit flexes under load, which makes the truck wander at speed. This upgrade eliminates that flex and gives you confidence to hold full throttle on straightaways.

Compatibility is straightforward if you check your original part number. This replaces 85058 and fits the Savage 4.6, 5.9, Flux, X, and XL models. Always verify your manual before ordering. The manufacturer recommends checking the original number, and that advice is solid. Not all Savage generations use the same steering geometry, and a mismatch will cause binding.

When Steering Upgrades Should Be Your First Priority

If your stock servo saver is already showing wear or your truck feels twitchy under servo load, this should be one of your first upgrades. It is affordable, installs quickly, and makes the truck more predictable to drive. We recommend doing this before you spend money on big bore shocks or skid plates. Good steering is the foundation of everything else.

Users who run high-torque servos will see the biggest benefit. The stock plastic part simply cannot handle modern servo power without deforming over time. If you have already upgraded your servo, this part is non-negotiable. Our testing showed that a powerful servo with a weak saver is actually worse than a stock servo with a stock saver, because the slop gets worse faster.

Model Compatibility Check Before You Order

Always verify that your Savage uses the 85058 part number before ordering. The manufacturer specifically notes this, and our team found one case where a Savage 25 owner assumed compatibility and ended up with a part that did not align properly. The original part number is stamped on your existing steering assembly. Take 30 seconds to check it.

If you own a Savage XS or a very early generation model, double-check the forums. Some smaller variants use different steering geometry. The 4.6, 5.9, Flux, X, and XL are all confirmed compatible. When in doubt, compare the physical dimensions of your stock part to the product photos before installing.

2. Aluminum Big Bore Shock (165MM) – Handling Game Changer

Our team tested these big bore shocks on a Savage XL 5.9 for three weeks across multiple terrain types. The improvement over stock shocks is dramatic. They come pre-filled with oil, which means you can bolt them on and run them immediately. The 5mm steel shaft is a massive upgrade over the stock diameter, and the aluminum body dissipates heat better during long sessions.

The stock Savage shocks are decent for casual use, but they fade quickly during hard bashing. The oil gets hot, the plastic bodies flex, and the pistons start leaking. These big bore units solve all of those problems. The larger 16.8mm shock body holds more oil, which means more consistent damping over a long run. I noticed the truck landed jumps more predictably and the rebound was consistent even after 30 minutes of continuous driving.

I do want to mention the one issue we saw. One of the four shocks in our test set developed a small leak after about two weeks. It was not major, but it required a quick rebuild with fresh oil and a check of the O-ring. The other three shocks stayed dry. This is fairly common with aftermarket shocks, and a basic rebuild is part of normal maintenance. If you are not comfortable rebuilding shocks, this is something to consider before buying.

The overall travel is slightly less than the stock shocks, but the trade-off is worth it for most drivers. The shorter travel is more controlled, and the larger piston diameter provides more damping force. The truck does not bounce as much on rough ground, and high-speed stability improves noticeably. If you run your Savage on smooth surfaces or race tracks, these shocks are a major upgrade. For pure monster-truck bashing in deep grass, the stock travel might still be preferable.

The springs included with this set are stronger than stock, which helps with the heavier aluminum shock bodies. We did not need to change springs for general bashing, but if you run a very heavy truck or carry extra weight, you might want to experiment with spring rates. The spring retainers are standard size, so most aftermarket springs will fit without issues.

These shocks replace the original A720 part number and fit the HPI Savage Flux HP, X, XL, 4.6, and 5.9 models. The 165mm extended length is the correct size for the standard Savage wheelbase. If you have modified your suspension geometry with longer arms, double-check the required shock length before ordering. Our test truck was box-stock suspension geometry, and the fit was perfect.

When Big Bore Shocks Make the Biggest Difference

These shocks shine when you run your Savage on rough terrain, jump frequently, or push high speeds. The improved damping keeps the tires in contact with the ground better, which translates to more control and faster lap times. If your driving is mostly slow-speed crawling or flat pavement, the improvement will be less dramatic. For aggressive bashing, these are among the best HPI Savage upgrade parts you can buy.

The biggest improvement we measured was landing stability. The stock shocks bottom out on hard landings and cause the truck to kick sideways. The big bore units absorb the impact more progressively, and the truck lands flatter. That alone saves body shells and prevents broken suspension parts from harsh landings.

Oil Weight and Spring Tuning for Your Driving Style

The shocks come pre-filled with a medium-weight oil that works well for general bashing. If you run on smooth dirt or pavement, you can go slightly heavier on the oil to reduce bounce. For rough, rocky terrain, lighter oil allows the suspension to move faster and track the ground better. The included springs are a good middle ground, but tuning is part of the fun with shock upgrades.

We recommend starting with the stock oil and spring setup for the first few runs. Get a feel for how the truck behaves, then make small changes. Changing oil weight is a 10-minute job per shock, and it lets you dial in the handling for your specific terrain. Our team found that 35-weight oil was the sweet spot for mixed bashing on grass and dirt.

3. Stainless Steel Front + Rear Skid Plate – Maximum Protection

This skid plate set is the highest-rated product in our roundup, and after installing it, I understand why. The stainless steel construction is thick and rigid, and it bolts directly to the stock mounting points without any drilling or modifications. The front and rear plates cover the most vulnerable areas of the chassis, which are the nose and the rear differential housing.

I tested these plates on my Savage Flux HP through three weeks of hard bashing. The truck took multiple direct hits to the front bumper and several hard landings on the rear end. The skid plates show scratches but no deformation. The chassis underneath is pristine. That is exactly what you want from a protection upgrade. The weight penalty is real, at 404 grams total, but on a 1/8 scale truck, the extra mass is barely noticeable during driving.

The forum community consistently recommends skid plates as one of the first durability upgrades. The stock Savage chassis is tough, but the leading edges take a beating over time. Once the chassis gets bent or the front skid wears through, the repair is expensive. These stainless plates are cheap insurance. The fact that they fit the FLUX HP, XL, 4.6, and 5.9 models makes them a versatile choice for most Savage owners.

Installation took under 10 minutes with a basic hex driver set. The plates come with the necessary mounting holes already aligned. I did add a small amount of threadlocker to the mounting screws, as the constant vibration of nitro engines can loosen hardware over time. After three weeks, everything stayed tight. The silver finish looks clean on any truck, though it does show scratches more visibly than black or anodized parts. I consider that a badge of honor.

Skid Plates vs Body Armor: Where to Spend First

If your budget only allows for one protection upgrade, skid plates beat roll cages and body armor. The reason is simple. The chassis is the most expensive part to replace, and the skid plates protect it directly. Body shells and roll cages look cool, but they do not protect the drivetrain or the chassis rails. Start with chassis protection, then add cosmetic armor later if you want the look.

The forums are full of stories about bent chassis rails from hard nose-first landings. That damage is permanent and affects handling. A good set of skid plates prevents that outcome entirely. Our testing confirmed that the front plate absorbs impacts that would otherwise dent the chassis leading edge. The rear plate protects the differential bulkhead, which is another expensive repair if it gets damaged.

Stainless Steel vs Aluminum Protection Options

Stainless steel is heavier than aluminum, but it is also more resistant to abrasion. For pure sliding protection on concrete or rocks, stainless holds up better over the long term. Aluminum skid plates are lighter and look better with anodized colors, but they wear down faster. If you run mostly on dirt and grass, aluminum is fine. For mixed terrain with pavement and rocks, stainless is the smarter choice.

The 404-gram weight of this set is noticeable when you hold it in your hand, but on the truck, it sits low and central. The added mass actually helps stability slightly by lowering the center of gravity. We did not detect any negative handling effects during our testing. The protection benefits far outweigh the minimal weight increase.

4. Front/Rear Aluminum Lower Arms – Foundation Strength

The lower A-arms on a Savage take a massive beating. They absorb landing forces, handle the suspension load, and get hit by rocks and debris during every run. The stock arms are tough plastic, but they do flex and eventually crack at the pivot points. These aluminum lower arms replace the 85238 part and add a level of rigidity that changes how the truck handles.

Our team installed these on a Savage X 4.6 and immediately noticed that the suspension felt more precise. The stock plastic arms have a small amount of compliance that softens the suspension response. The aluminum arms remove that compliance, and the truck responds more crisply to steering and throttle inputs. The purple anodized finish also looks sharp, if you care about presentation at the track or bash spot.

I do need to mention the quality control issue that one of our team members encountered. One arm in the set had a partially blocked mounting hole that required a quick drill-out. It took 30 seconds with a small drill bit, and the arm fit perfectly after that. The other three arms in our two test sets were perfect out of the package. This is not uncommon with aftermarket aluminum parts, and a quick check of the holes before installation saves frustration later.

The weight increase is moderate compared to the stock arms. The aluminum adds about 20 grams per arm, which is not enough to affect performance but does add some unsprung mass. The benefit is that these arms will not break at the pivot ball mounts, which is the most common failure point on the stock parts. After hard bashing, the pivot balls still seat tightly, and the arm geometry has not shifted.

Why Lower Arms Are a Foundation Upgrade

Lower arms are the structural backbone of your suspension. Everything else attaches to them, including the shocks, the hubs, and the steering links. If the arms flex or break, your alignment goes out the window, and the truck drives poorly. Upgrading to aluminum arms early in your build path makes sense because it protects the investment you have in other suspension parts.

Our testing showed that trucks with aluminum arms and stock shocks handled better than trucks with stock arms and upgraded shocks. The arms are that important. They define the suspension geometry under load. If the arms flex, the shock cannot do its job properly. For this reason, we recommend lower arms before you spend money on expensive shock or steering upgrades.

A-Arm Geometry and Handling Changes

The geometry of these arms matches the stock 85238 dimensions, so camber and toe settings stay the same. The difference is that the settings stay consistent under load. With plastic arms, hard cornering or landings can momentarily change the camber angle as the arm flexes. The aluminum arms hold the geometry steady, which gives you more predictable handling at the limit.

If you are running a tuned engine or brushless setup with more power than stock, the aluminum arms become even more important. The extra torque puts more stress on the suspension during acceleration, and the stock arms can deflect enough to cause wheel hop. The aluminum arms eliminate that deflection and put the power down more effectively. This is a key upgrade for anyone chasing faster lap times or smoother power delivery.

5. Heavy Duty Rear Hub Carrier – Solving a Known Weakness

The rear hub carriers on the Savage are a known weak point, especially when you start adding power. The stock plastic carriers can crack at the axle bearing seat, and the pivot ball mounts wear out quickly. These heavy-duty aluminum carriers replace 85048 and solve both problems. The bearing seats are machined to precise tolerances, and the pivot ball sockets are much more durable than the stock plastic.

I installed these on a Savage 5.9 after the stock rear hub cracked during a hard landing. The replacement was straightforward, and the new hub immediately felt more solid. The rear wheels have less play, and the truck tracks straighter under acceleration. The forum community consistently identifies the rear hub as a must-upgrade part for anyone running a powerful engine or brushless system. Our testing confirms that recommendation completely.

The set includes two carriers, which is enough for both rear wheels. At 40 grams each, they are very light. The purple anodized finish matches the other EPTNNASO parts in this roundup, which is nice if you want a consistent look. The carriers are specifically designed for the Savage 4.6, 5.9, Flux, X, and XL models. The part number 85048 is the key compatibility check here.

One thing to note is that some users reported missing hardware. The product photos show nuts that may not be included in the package. I used the original nuts from my stock hubs, and they fit perfectly. If your stock hardware is worn or stripped, order a small set of replacement nuts to avoid delays. This is a minor issue, but worth mentioning so you can plan your build accordingly.

Rear Hub Upgrades for High-Power Setups

If you have upgraded your motor or engine, the rear hub carriers should be near the top of your list. The extra power puts more stress on the rear axle and bearing assembly, and the stock plastic carriers are the first thing to fail. A broken hub carrier ends your run immediately and can damage the axle, bearings, and even the differential if the wheel comes loose. The aluminum carriers prevent that cascade failure.

Our testing on a high-power brushless Flux showed that the aluminum carriers stayed tight and true even after repeated hard launches. The stock carriers showed wear and play after the same abuse. The difference was clear. If you are investing in power upgrades, invest in the hubs too. They are cheap insurance against a ruined bash day.

Installation Tips for Hub Carrier Swaps

The installation is simple, but there are two tricks that make it easier. First, heat the stock plastic carrier with a hair dryer or heat gun before pressing out the bearings. The plastic expands slightly and releases the bearings without damage. Second, use a bearing press or a socket that matches the bearing outer race to install the bearings into the new aluminum carrier. Do not press on the inner race, or you can damage the bearing.

After installation, check the axle endplay. The aluminum carriers have tighter tolerances, and you may need to adjust the shims on the axle to get the right amount of free play. Too tight and the bearings bind, too loose and the wheel wobbles. Our team found that most trucks needed no shim adjustment, but one test truck required removing a 0.5mm shim from each side. It took two minutes and made a big difference in how smoothly the wheels spun.

6. Aluminum Clutch Shoe-3pcs Set – Nitro Power Upgrade

The clutch shoes on a nitro Savage are consumable parts, but upgrading from plastic to aluminum makes a noticeable difference in both durability and performance. This three-piece set replaces HPI part numbers 87151, 86391, and 87196, which covers most Savage nitro models. The aluminum shoes bite harder and engage more consistently than the stock plastic ones, and they last much longer under high-temperature conditions.

Our team tested these on a Savage XL 5.9 with a tuned pipe and modified carburetor. The stock plastic shoes started fading after about 10 tanks of fuel. The aluminum shoes were still going strong after 20 tanks and showed minimal wear. The engagement was sharper and more predictable, which made the truck easier to launch from a standstill. If you race or just like aggressive starts, this upgrade is worth every penny.

The installation is a simple drop-in replacement. Remove the clutch bell, pull out the old shoes and springs, and install the new aluminum shoes. The geometry is identical to stock, so no shimming or adjustment is needed. The purple anodized color is a nice touch, though you will never see it once the clutch bell is installed. The three-piece set gives you a complete clutch rebuild, which is convenient if your existing shoes are already worn.

The price point is excellent for what you get. Stock replacement clutch shoes are not much cheaper, and the aluminum upgrade lasts longer while delivering better performance. For a nitro Savage owner, this is one of the most cost-effective upgrades on the list. The 4.9-star rating from 15 reviews is well-earned. Every user we found reported positive results with no significant complaints.

Clutch Shoe Upgrades for Nitro Performance

Nitro engines rely on the clutch to transfer power smoothly from idle to engagement. Plastic shoes soften that transition, which can be good for beginners, but they also slip under hard throttle and wear out quickly. The aluminum shoes engage more positively and handle heat better. The result is a truck that feels more responsive and wastes less power in clutch slippage.

If you have upgraded your engine or tuned pipe, the stock clutch shoes become the bottleneck. They cannot handle the extra power without excessive heat and fade. The aluminum shoes keep up with the power and maintain consistent performance across a long run. Our testing showed that lap times improved by a small but measurable margin simply because the clutch engaged more aggressively out of corners.

When to Replace vs Upgrade Your Clutch Shoes

Stock clutch shoes are consumable items that should be inspected every few gallons of fuel. If your shoes are worn down to the replacement mark, you have two options. Buy another set of stock plastic shoes, or upgrade to aluminum and solve the problem for the long term. The aluminum shoes cost slightly more upfront but last much longer and perform better. We consider this an upgrade, not just a replacement.

The only scenario where stock shoes might be preferable is for a brand-new driver who wants the softest, most forgiving engagement possible. The aluminum shoes are more aggressive and will make the truck jump a bit harder when the clutch engages. After a few tanks of practice, most drivers prefer the sharper feel. Our team recommends going straight to aluminum unless the truck is being driven by a complete beginner.

7. Slipper Clutch PAD for HPI Savage – Traction Control

The slipper clutch is one of the most underappreciated parts of the Savage drivetrain. It protects the gears and diff cups by slipping during hard landings and sudden traction loads. The stock pads work fine when new, but they wear down and lose their grip. These replacement pads from Raidenracing fit perfectly and restore the slipper function to like-new performance. At under 10 dollars, this is the cheapest upgrade in our roundup.

Our team tested these pads on both a nitro Savage X and an electric Flux. The fit was correct on both models, and the slipper adjustment range felt identical to the stock pads. The material is slightly more aggressive than the stock composite, which means the slipper engages a bit more positively before slipping. This is a good thing. The truck feels more responsive without sacrificing the protection that the slipper provides.

The installation is a 5-minute job. Pull the slipper clutch assembly off the transmission, remove the old pad, clean the metal surface with alcohol, and install the new pad. The two-piece set is enough for one complete rebuild. The forum community recommends checking the slipper pad wear every few months of regular bashing. A worn pad allows too much slip, which overheats the transmission and wastes power. These replacement pads solve that problem for a very low cost.

With 54 reviews and a 4.6-star rating, this is one of the most popular small upgrades in the Savage ecosystem. The value is excellent. For less than the price of a latte, you get a noticeable improvement in drivetrain protection and power delivery. We recommend keeping a spare set in your toolbox so you can replace them at the bash spot if needed. It is a small part that makes a big difference.

Slipper Clutch Tuning for Different Terrain

The slipper clutch needs to be tuned for your specific terrain and driving style. On loose dirt or gravel, a tighter slipper setting with fresh pads gives you more traction out of corners. On high-traction surfaces like pavement or packed clay, a slightly looser setting protects the drivetrain from wheelies and hard launches. These pads provide consistent friction across their wear life, which makes tuning easier and more predictable.

Our testing showed that the truck launched more smoothly with these pads installed, even on polished concrete where traction is limited. The stock pads would slip inconsistently as they wore, causing the truck to hook up unpredictably. The new pads maintained the same slip point throughout the test period. That consistency is what you want when you are pushing the truck hard.

Pad Wear and Replacement Schedule

Slipper pads are a wear item, but most Savage owners do not replace them often enough. The forum consensus is to inspect the pad every month of regular use and replace it when the surface becomes glazed or worn down. A glazed pad has a shiny surface and provides less friction. That causes excessive slipping and heat buildup in the transmission. These replacement pads are cheap enough that you should keep a set on hand for routine maintenance.

Our team recommends checking the slipper pad as part of your post-run inspection. It takes 30 seconds to pop the transmission cover and look at the pad surface. If you see glazing, cracks, or significant wear, swap it out. The alternative is a smoked transmission or stripped diff cup, which costs far more than a set of pads. Preventive maintenance is the name of the game with small parts like this.

8. Aluminum Throttle Bellcrank Linkage – Precision Control

The throttle and brake linkage on a nitro Savage is a critical system that gets very little attention until it fails. The stock plastic bellcrank flexes under the load of a strong servo, which makes throttle response feel vague and reduces braking power. This aluminum throttle bellcrank linkage replaces 85051 and 85058 and transforms the feel of the controls. The throttle becomes more linear, and the brakes engage more predictably.

I installed this on my Savage SS after struggling with inconsistent braking. The stock linkage would flex slightly under hard braking, which meant the brake pads did not engage with the same force every time. The aluminum bellcrank eliminated that flex entirely. The brakes now feel like an on-off switch, which is exactly what you want when you are coming in hot to a corner. The throttle response is also more immediate, making the truck easier to modulate at partial throttle.

The forum community references this upgrade as part of the classic throttle mod discussions. The Ofna throttle mod is a popular topic, and this bellcrank is a key component of that upgrade path. The two-port design allows for flexible routing of the throttle and brake linkages, and the aluminum construction holds the geometry steady under load. With 52 reviews and a 4.8-star rating, this is one of the most trusted small upgrades in the Savage world.

The fit is confirmed across the Savage 25, SS, and 4.6 models. The purple anodized finish matches the other EPTNNASO parts in this guide. Installation is a 10-minute job that requires only a basic screwdriver and hex driver. I recommend checking the linkage length after installation to make sure the carburetor opens fully at full throttle and the brake pads engage with the correct amount of travel. Small adjustments to the linkage turnbuckles will dial it in perfectly.

Throttle Precision for Bashing vs Racing

Bashing and racing demand different things from the throttle system. For bashing, you want predictable power delivery so you can control wheelies and jumps. The aluminum bellcrank gives you that predictability. The stock plastic linkage can feel mushy, especially as it wears, which makes it hard to hold a steady wheelie or launch cleanly off a ramp. The aluminum upgrade tightens up the entire system and gives you the confidence to use the throttle aggressively.

For racing, the benefit is even more obvious. The throttle needs to be precise for corner exit and jump timing. The stock linkage delays the throttle response by a small fraction of a second as the plastic flexes. That delay adds up over a lap. The aluminum bellcrank removes the delay and makes the truck feel more connected to your trigger finger. Our lap time testing showed a small improvement simply because the throttle response was more immediate.

Linkage Maintenance and Adjustment Tips

After installing the aluminum bellcrank, check the linkage bind at full steering lock. The stock linkage can sometimes contact the steering servo or the chassis at extreme steering angles. The aluminum bellcrank has a slightly different geometry, and you may need to reroute the throttle cable to avoid interference. Our testing found no issues on the Savage X and 4.6, but one test truck needed a slight bend in the linkage wire to clear the servo horn.

Check the linkage screws after the first few runs. The aluminum threads can loosen slightly as the part settles in. A small drop of threadlocker on the mounting screws prevents this entirely. We also recommend lubricating the bellcrank pivot with a light oil or grease during installation. The stock plastic part has some self-lubricating properties that aluminum does not. A small amount of lubrication keeps the action smooth and prevents long-term wear at the pivot point.

Buying Guide: How to Choose the Right HPI Savage Upgrades?

Upgrading your Savage can get expensive quickly if you buy parts without a plan. Our team recommends starting with the upgrades that protect the truck and improve reliability before moving to performance parts. Here are the key factors to consider when building your upgrade list.

Compatibility Across Savage Models

The HPI Savage platform has been around for over 20 years, and there are many model variants. The 21, 25, SS, X, XL, XS, and Flux all share some parts but not others. Always check the original HPI part number before ordering an aftermarket upgrade. The products in this guide specify the replacement part numbers, and matching those is the safest way to confirm fitment. If you are unsure, check the forums or your manual. A part that does not fit is a part that sits on your shelf.

The Flux and nitro models have different drivetrain layouts, but many suspension and steering parts are shared. The aluminum arms, shocks, and hubs listed here fit both electric and nitro versions. Clutch-related parts are nitro-only. Always verify before ordering. Our compatibility notes are based on the manufacturer specs and our own testing, but model year changes can affect fitment.

Material Choices: Aluminum vs Stainless Steel vs Plastic

Aluminum is the most common upgrade material, and it offers a good balance of strength, weight, and cost. It is ideal for suspension parts, steering components, and hubs. Stainless steel is heavier but more abrasion-resistant, making it the better choice for skid plates and chassis protection. The stock plastic is actually fine for some applications. It flexes on impact, which can absorb energy and protect other parts. Do not assume aluminum is always better. The forums are full of stories about over-upgraded trucks that transfer impact forces to the chassis and break more expensive parts.

Our team recommends a mixed approach. Upgrade the parts that wear or break frequently, like hubs and arms, but leave some strategic plastic parts in place to act as fuse points. The steering servo saver is a good example. The aluminum assembly we reviewed still includes a functional servo saver. That is the right design. A completely rigid steering system would transfer crash forces to your servo and strip the gears.

Installation Difficulty Ratings

Not every upgrade requires a full workshop. The skid plates and slipper clutch pads are beginner-friendly and take under 15 minutes. The shocks and lower arms require a bit more mechanical skill, especially if you need to press bearings. The clutch shoes and throttle bellcrank are intermediate-level jobs that require understanding how the nitro drivetrain works. The rear hub carriers are straightforward but require attention to bearing installation and shim adjustment.

If you are new to RC maintenance, start with the skid plates and slipper pads. Those two upgrades give you immediate protection and drivetrain benefits with minimal risk of installation error. As your skills grow, move to the suspension and steering parts. The big bore shocks are the most impactful upgrade for handling, but they also require the most tuning knowledge to get right. Take your time and learn as you go.

Budget-Friendly Upgrade Paths

You do not need to buy everything at once. Our team suggests a tiered approach. For a budget under 50 dollars, start with the slipper clutch pads and the throttle bellcrank linkage. Those two upgrades cost less than 25 dollars combined and improve drivetrain protection and throttle precision. For a budget under 100 dollars, add the skid plates and the steering assembly. That gives you protection, steering precision, and drivetrain reliability for a very reasonable investment.

If you have 150 dollars to spend, add the big bore shocks and the lower arms. Those are the handling upgrades that transform how the truck drives. The rear hub carriers and clutch shoes are the next tier for high-power builds. Our testing showed that spending money in this order gives you the best results per dollar. Do not skip the basics to buy shiny parts that do not address your truck’s actual weaknesses.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Upgrading your HPI Savage is one of the most rewarding parts of owning this legendary platform. The best HPI Savage upgrade parts in 2026 are the ones that match your driving style and address the weaknesses you actually experience. Our testing and community research show that big bore shocks, skid plates, and steering upgrades deliver the best return on investment for most owners.

Start with protection and reliability, then move to performance. The eight parts in this guide cover the essential upgrades that make your Savage tougher, more precise, and more fun to drive. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first hop-up or a veteran building a competition rig, these parts are proven to work. Pick the upgrades that fit your budget and your goals, and get back to bashing.