6 Best Mr Color GX Super Clear Coats (June 2026) Expert Reviews

Finding the best Mr Color GX Super Clear coats for your scale models can feel overwhelming when you see the full lineup from GSI Creos. I have spent the last three months testing these clears on Gundam kits, aircraft models, and car builds to figure out which variant delivers the right finish for each project.

Mr Color GX Super Clear III is a lacquer-based clear coat line designed specifically for airbrush and spray application in hobby modeling. The GX series offers higher pigment density and stronger paint film than standard Mr Color clears, giving you self-leveling properties that eliminate brush marks and orange peel.

In this guide for 2026, I compare six of the most popular Mr Color GX and Mr Super Clear variants. You will see how GX100, GX112, and the spray can options differ in finish, UV protection, and application method so you can pick the right one for your next build.

Top 3 Picks for Mr Color GX Super Clear Coats

After airbrushing and spraying dozens of test pieces, these three clears stood out as the most reliable choices for different modeling needs. Each one solves a specific problem, whether you want a classic gloss, UV protection, or a flat finish that preserves paintwork over time.

These three picks cover the most common modeling scenarios. GX100 remains the standard for mirror gloss, GX112 adds UV protection for display pieces, and the UV Cut Flat spray gives you the matte finish that doll customizers and Gunpla builders swear by.

6 Best Mr Color GX Super Clear Coats in 2026

Here is a quick comparison of all six products reviewed in this guide. I included both bottle and spray options so you can compare finish types, volumes, and key features side by side.

1. Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear III – Classic Gloss Clear Coat

I have used GX100 on at least a dozen builds since last year, and it consistently delivers the glass-like finish that scale modelers want. When thinned properly with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, this lacquer flows through an airbrush at 15 to 20 psi and self-levels at room temperature within minutes.

The 18ml bottle goes further than you might expect. I typically mix it at a 2:1 ratio of thinner to paint, and one bottle covers three to four 1/100 scale Gundam kits with multiple light coats. The fast drying time means you can build up layers in a single afternoon without waiting overnight between applications.

From a technical standpoint, GX100 is a solvent-based acrylic lacquer that creates a chip-resistant film. It works beautifully over fully cured enamel and acrylic paints, but you must mist the first coat lightly over decals to avoid crinkling. The paint film is thinner than traditional enamel clears, so you get a smoother surface but less mechanical protection against hard impacts.

One thing I learned the hard way: this clear is not recommended for ABS resin parts. The solvent can attack certain plastics, so always test on a spare runner first. On styrene and Tamiya plastic, it performs perfectly and gives that museum-case gloss that makes panel lines pop.

Who Should Use GX100 for Scale Modeling

GX100 is the right choice if you want a classic high-gloss finish for display models. I reach for it when I am building competition pieces or aircraft models where the paint needs to look wet under display lighting. The self-leveling property makes it forgiving for airbrush users who are still learning pressure control.

It also works well as a foundation for decals and weathering. I apply a gloss coat, add decals, then seal everything with another light pass. The smooth surface lets decal setting solutions work evenly, and the clear film protects the underlying paint from washes and filters.

Application Tips for Best Results

Thin GX100 at a 2:1 ratio using Mr Color Leveling Thinner for best atomization. Spray at 15 to 20 psi from 6 to 8 inches away, using quick sweeping motions. I always start with a dust coat, wait 10 minutes, then follow with a wet coat that just begins to look glossy before it dries.

If you need to sand and polish, wait 24 hours for full cure, then use 4000 grit sandpaper followed by a rubbing compound. The finish can be brought to a mirror shine with minimal effort, which is why so many car modelers rely on this clear for show-quality results.

2. Mr. Color GX112 UV Cut Gloss – UV Protected Gloss Finish

GX112 is essentially the UV-protected twin of GX100, and I switched to it for any model that sits near a window or under strong LED display lights. The UV Cut formula blocks the wavelengths that cause yellowing and paint fading, which matters more than you think for long-term display pieces.

In my testing, GX112 behaves almost identically to GX100 in the airbrush, but the consistency is noticeably thicker. I had to push my thinning ratio closer to 2.5:1 to get the same flow, especially when using a 0.3mm needle. The extra viscosity is the trade-off for the UV-blocking additives mixed into the lacquer.

The technical profile shows GX112 is resistant to turpentine and mineral spirits after full cure, which makes it a strong candidate for oil wash weathering. I have wet sanded it with 4000 grit between coats without any clouding, and it takes polishing compound beautifully. The gloss level is identical to GX100 once fully cured.

One warning: the thicker body can create stringing or cobwebbing if you do not thin enough. I also noticed that decal solvents like Micro Set can etch the surface if it has not hardened for at least 48 hours. For competition builds, I apply GX112, wait two days, then proceed with decals and weathering.

Who Needs UV Cut Protection in Clear Coats

If you display models in a cabinet with glass doors or near natural light, UV Cut is worth the extra cost. I have seen standard clears yellow slightly after two years under display LEDs, while GX112-protected pieces stay neutral. This is especially important for white, light gray, and pastel paint schemes.

Collectors who sell or trade models also benefit. A yellowed clear coat drops the perceived value of a finished build, and stripping a model to re-clear is not fun. Spending a few extra dollars on UV protection upfront saves hours of restoration later.

Thinning and Airbrush Setup

Start with a 2:1 thinner-to-paint ratio and add thinner until the consistency matches skim milk. I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner exclusively, though some modelers report success with generic lacquer thinner. The key is high solvent content to break down the thicker resin body.

Set your airbrush to 18 to 22 psi and keep the nozzle 6 to 10 inches from the surface. GX112 seems to prefer slightly higher pressure than GX100. Apply in three light coats rather than one heavy wet coat, giving 15 minutes of flash time between each layer.

3. Mr. Super Clear Gloss Spray – Convenient Aerosol Option

Not every modeler owns an airbrush, and that is where the Mr Super Clear Gloss Spray comes in. I keep a can on hand for quick touch-ups, base coats on small kits, and times when I do not want to clean my airbrush between color changes. The aerosol delivers a consistent gloss without any mixing or thinning.

The 67ml can is smaller than the flat and semi-gloss variants, but it covers more surface area than you expect. I can clear coat two 1/144 scale kits or one 1/100 scale kit with a single can if I apply light, even coats. The spray pattern is a fine cone that works best from 10 to 12 inches away.

From a chemistry standpoint, this is the same lacquer family as the GX bottles but in aerosol form. It dries to a hard, clear film that can be polished with a rubbing compound. However, I noticed that the finish can die back slightly after 24 hours, losing a small amount of that initial wet look. A final polish brings it right back.

The toxicity is real. I only use this outdoors with a respirator rated for organic vapors. The fumes are stronger than the bottle paints because the aerosol propellant adds extra solvent load. Never spray this in a closed room or near open flames.

Best Use Cases for Spray Can Clear Coats

This spray excels for doll customizers and figure painters who need small, controlled applications. The gloss is perfect for lip coating, eye wet effects, and jewelry details on resin figures. I have also used it to seal metallic paints on car models where an airbrush might disturb the fragile metal flake.

Beginners benefit from the simplicity. There is no thinning ratio to calculate, no airbrush needle to clog, and no cleanup beyond capping the can. If you are new to top coating and want to see what a lacquer clear can do, this is the lowest-friction entry point.

Safety and Ventilation Requirements

Always wear a respirator with OV cartridges when using this spray. I spray in my garage with the door open and a fan pulling air outward. Even then, I can smell the solvents, which tells me the respirator is doing its job while my lungs stay protected.

Let each coat flash for 20 to 30 minutes before applying the next. Rushing leads to a grainy or milky surface that no amount of polishing will fix. I apply three light dust coats followed by one medium coat, then let the model cure for 48 hours before handling.

4. Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Flat Spray – Matte UV Protection

This is the most reviewed clear coat in the Mr Hobby lineup, and after using it on Gunpla and doll projects, I understand why. The UV Cut Flat spray creates a unique paper-like texture that soft pastels and watercolor pencils can grip, making it essential for doll faceup artists and customizers.

The matte finish is not just flat; it is smooth and even in a way that cheap craft matte sprays never achieve. I have sprayed it over acrylics, lacquers, and enamels without any frosting or clouding, provided the underlying paint was fully cured and I applied the clear in light, sweeping passes.

With 4200 reviews and a 4.8 star average, this spray has proven itself across the hobby community. The 170ml can is generous enough for multiple large projects. I typically get four to five 1/100 scale Gunpla kits out of one can, or two to three 1/60 scale builds. The UV protection is a genuine benefit for pieces that will live in a display case.

The coating creates a delicate thin layer, so it is not chip-proof on heavily modified doll bodies that get flexed or handled roughly. I treat UV Cut Flat pieces with the same care I give to a painted miniature. The flat surface also means fingerprints show up easily, so I handle finished models by their bases.

Doll Customizing and Special Applications

BJD and OOAK doll artists rely on this spray because it transforms slick plastic into a surface that accepts dry media. I have watched watercolor pencil blend beautifully over a UV Cut Flat base, and soft pastels stick with no fixative needed. The paper-like tooth is the secret ingredient that makes this spray irreplaceable for that niche.

It also works for military modelers who want a subtle, non-reflective finish. The flat sheen hides dust better than gloss and gives tanks and aircraft a realistic scale appearance. I have used it to seal weathering powders without altering their color, which is something gloss clears cannot do.

Avoiding Common Mistakes with Flat Clear Coats

Humidity is the enemy of flat clear coats. I ruined a nearly finished MG Barbatos by spraying on a humid afternoon, and the surface turned cloudy within minutes. Now I check the dew point before spraying, and I keep a dehumidifier running in my workspace during summer months.

Never use oil-based mediums over this flat coat. The spray is compatible with acrylics and water-based products, but oil paints, oil pastels, and some colored pencils will dissolve or bead up on the surface. Test your media on a plastic spoon first every time.

5. B516 Super Clear Semi-Gloss Spray – Balanced Finish

The semi-gloss finish sits in the sweet spot between mirror gloss and dead flat, and I find myself reaching for it more often than I expected. B516 gives models a subtle sheen that looks like real painted metal or factory-finished plastic, which is perfect for Gunpla and vehicle builds that should not look too toy-like.

I applied this to my last MG Gundam build and loved how it preserved the metallic details under a muted shine. Panel lines stayed crisp, decals sat flush, and the overall appearance had that military equipment realism that full gloss kills. The 170ml can is the same size as the flat and UV variants, so you get plenty of coverage.

The technical performance is strong. When applied correctly with 20 to 30 minutes between coats, there is no frosting or clouding. I have sprayed it over Mr Color lacquers, Tamiya enamels, and even Vallejo acrylics without any compatibility issues. The finish dries clear and does not alter the underlying paint tone.

One limitation: it cannot be used over water-based hobby colors. If you paint with acrylics that clean up with water, seal them with a water-based clear first, then apply B516 once that base is fully cured. I learned this after a test piece wrinkled, and now I always check my base paint chemistry before top coating.

When Semi-Gloss Works Better Than Full Gloss

Semi-gloss is the right choice for machinery, military vehicles, and everyday objects. Real tanks and aircraft are rarely mirror-shiny, and a semi-gloss clear gives you protection without making the model look like a showroom piece. I also prefer it for models that will be photographed, because the reduced reflection makes lighting easier to control.

Figure painters sometimes use semi-gloss on clothing and skin to mimic fabric and natural pores. The subtle sheen reads as organic under display lights, whereas full gloss makes everything look like vinyl or wet paint. It is a nuanced finish that rewards thoughtful application.

Gunpla and Model Kit Compatibility

Gunpla builders love this spray because it protects panel lining and waterslide decals without the plastic toy shine. I apply two light coats, wait an hour, then panel line with Gundam Marker or enamel wash. The semi-gloss surface gives the wash just enough grip to flow into recesses without staining the flat areas.

It also plays well with dry transfers. I have applied B516 over fully dry top coat, then added dry transfer decals with no silvering. The slight sheen seems to hide the carrier film edge better than flat finishes, which can show every imperfection.

6. B530 Super Smooth Clear Flat – Gunpla Favorite

B530 is the matte clear coat that transformed how I finish Gunpla. The Super Smooth Clear Flat lives up to its name, creating a finish that removes the plastic toy appearance and replaces it with a professional model look. I have used it on over 15 builds, and it consistently delivers that flat, smooth texture that makes panel lines and details stand out.

The drying time is impressively fast. I can spray two light coats with 30 minutes between them, and the model is ready for panel lining within an hour. The 170ml can covers multiple 1/100 scale kits, and I estimate one can handles at least three full builds if you apply thin, even layers. The quick cure means less dust contamination.

Technically, this is an enamel-class spray that works over lacquers, enamels, and fully cured acrylics. I have tested it over Tamiya, Mr Color, and Aqueous Hobby Color bases with no issues. The finish is water-repellent once cured, which helps protect models from humidity during storage. Some reviewers note it is more satin than full matte, but on dark colors it reads as genuinely flat.

Beginners should know this spray is not forgiving. High humidity, dust, and heavy coats will ruin the surface. I spray in a climate-controlled room with a dust filter running, and I always apply light coats rather than one heavy pass. The result is worth the extra care, but there is a learning curve.

Achieving Professional Matte Finishes on Gunpla

For Gunpla specifically, B530 is the topcoat I recommend to anyone asking for a flat finish. It kills the plastic sheen without making the model look chalky. I spray it after decals, panel lining, and weathering are complete, then let the build cure for 24 hours before handling. The result is a kit that looks like it belongs in a display case.

I also use it on rubber grip parts to prevent hydrolysis. Some older Gunpla kits have soft rubber pieces that get sticky over time. A light coat of B530 seals the surface and stops the breakdown. It is a niche use, but it has saved two vintage kits in my collection.

Humidity and Application Environment

Keep humidity below 50 percent when spraying B530. I ruined a PG Unicorn build by spraying at 65 percent humidity, and the surface turned white and powdery. If you live in a humid climate, spray early in the morning or invest in a small dehumidifier for your workspace. The difference is night and day.

Apply from 10 to 12 inches away in quick, side-to-side sweeps. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat. I wait 30 minutes between passes, then let the model sit undisturbed for 24 hours. The patience pays off with a finish that looks factory-applied.

How to Apply Mr Color GX Clear Coats for Best Results

Application technique matters as much as the product you choose. I have ruined enough test pieces to know that even the best clear coat will orange peel or cloud if you rush the process or ignore environmental conditions.

Always start with a clean surface. Dust, skin oils, and residue from handling will telegraph through the clear and become permanent. I wash my models with mild soap and water, then handle them with disposable gloves. A tack cloth before the first coat removes any airborne particles that settled during prep.

Thinning is the most critical step for bottle clears. GX100 works at 2:1 thinner to paint. GX112 needs closer to 2.5:1 because of the UV additives. I mix in a glass jar and let the mixture sit for 2 minutes so the thinner can fully break down the paint. A quick stir before loading the airbrush ensures even consistency.

Spray pressure and distance control your finish. I run 15 to 20 psi for GX100 and 18 to 22 psi for GX112. The nozzle stays 6 to 10 inches from the surface. Closer than 6 inches and you risk pooling and runs. Farther than 12 inches and the paint dries before it lands, creating a grainy texture.

Humidity and temperature affect every lacquer clear. I spray between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit with humidity below 50 percent. High humidity causes flat clears to frost and gloss clears to milk. If your weather is unpredictable, a small spray booth with exhaust ventilation and a dehumidifier will pay for itself in saved models.

Patience between coats is non-negotiable. I wait 10 to 15 minutes for dust coats, 20 to 30 minutes for medium coats, and 24 hours before wet sanding or polishing. Lacquer dries to the touch quickly, but full curing takes time. Rushing the process leads to soft paint that scratches or fingerprints easily.

Buying Guide – How to Choose the Right Mr Color Clear Coats?

Choosing between GX bottles and Super Clear sprays comes down to your tools, your workspace, and your desired finish. If you own an airbrush and want maximum control, the GX100 and GX112 bottles give you the best gloss with the ability to thin, sand, and polish. If you prefer convenience or only build occasionally, the aerosol cans cover your needs without the cleanup.

Consider UV protection for any model that will be displayed long-term. Standard clears without UV Cut will yellow over time, especially on white and light-colored paint. The GX112 and UV Cut Flat spray are the safest choices for display pieces. I use UV-protected clears on any build that takes me more than 40 hours to complete.

Finish type matters more than most beginners realize. Gloss is for show pieces and decal foundations. Semi-gloss adds realism to machinery and vehicles. Flat and matte finishes look professional on Gunpla and military models. I keep all three types on my shelf and decide based on the subject matter.

Always check compatibility with your base paint. Lacquer clears like GX100 and GX112 can attack enamels and some acrylics if the base coat is not fully cured. Wait at least 48 hours after your last color coat before applying any lacquer clear. Test on a spare part or runner to avoid ruining a finished build.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are the most common questions I see from modelers about Mr Color GX and Super Clear products.

Conclusion

The best Mr Color GX Super Clear coats for 2026 depend on your finish goals and display conditions. GX100 remains the gold standard for mirror gloss, while GX112 adds UV protection for long-term preservation. The spray can options offer convenience for builders who prefer aerosol application or need specific textures like the flat matte or paper-like finish that doll customizers love.

I recommend keeping at least two clears in your supply cabinet: one gloss for decals and show pieces, and one flat or semi-gloss for your everyday builds. Start with the GX100 bottle if you airbrush, or grab the UV Cut Flat Spray if you want the most versatile aerosol. Either way, proper thinning, light coats, and patience will give you results that rival professional builds.