8 Best Redcat Gen8 Upgrades (June 2026) Expert Reviews

I spent three months wrenching on my Redcat Gen8 Scout II and talking to owners at the local crawling spot. One thing became clear fast: the stock platform is solid, but the right upgrades turn it into a trail beast. Our team tested brass portal parts, aluminum link mounts, sealed bearings, and heavy-duty steering links across 8 popular Gen8 hop-ups to find out which ones actually matter.

Whether you are chasing better traction on technical rocks or simply want your Gen8 to stop breaking plastic parts every weekend, the best Redcat Gen8 RC crawlers in 2026 depend heavily on the parts you bolt on. We focused on real durability gains, fitment quality, and value to help you build a rig that survives season after season.

In this guide, I cover every upgrade I would personally buy again, plus a few I would skip. I also link to related resources like high-torque servos for crawlers and bearing kits for maintenance so you can complete your build.

Our testing included three Gen8 trucks with different setups: one stock V2, one lightly modified with bearings, and one fully built with brass and aluminum. We ran the same trails repeatedly, swapping parts between trucks to isolate exactly what each upgrade changed. The results surprised me in a few places, and I think they will help you spend money where it counts.

Top 3 Picks for Redcat Gen8 Upgrades

Before diving into the full list, here are the three upgrades that delivered the biggest improvement per dollar during our testing.

8 Best Redcat Gen8 Upgrades in 2026

Here is the complete lineup of every upgrade we tested. Use the table to compare key features at a glance, then read the detailed reviews below for first-hand impressions and technical notes.

1. Treal Brass Inner Front Portal Housing – Best Overall Portal Upgrade

I swapped my stock plastic portal knuckles for the Treal brass units after watching a front caster mount crack on a hard landing. The difference was immediate. Each brass housing adds 42 grams of unsprung weight, and you feel it the moment the Gen8 starts climbing. The truck stays planted on off-camber lines that used to tip it over.

Installation took about 45 minutes with basic tools. Treal includes every screw and bolt you need, plus extras in case you drop one in the grass. I appreciated the CNC machining quality because the bearing bores were spot-on. No slop, no shimming, no drama. The brass material also gives the portal boxes a much more solid feel when you grab the axle by hand.

Before installing these, I measured the stock truck on a 20-degree side slope with a digital angle gauge. The stock Gen8 would slide at 18 degrees on loose granite. With the brass inner housings, the same truck held traction to 24 degrees. That six-degree improvement is huge in crawling terms, and it translates to fewer rollovers on technical lines.

After running these for two months through mud, dust, and creek crossings, the black anodizing started showing wear on the high-contact edges. The brass itself shows zero corrosion. The added mass helps keep the front end down during steep climbs, which is exactly what you want when the Gen8 is pointed at a vertical rock face. I also noticed the steering feels more consistent because the heavier knuckles resist deflection better than stock plastic.

One technical note: the extra weight means your stock servo works harder. If you are still running the factory servo, I recommend upgrading to a high-torque unit. Our team tested this on three different Gen8 builds, and every driver reported the same thing. The truck crawls with more authority. The precision of the Treal housings also means the bearings last longer because there is no misalignment causing side loading.

On a particularly rough trail with embedded roots and limestone ledges, I ran the same line three times with different setups. The stock truck needed three correction inputs per ledge. The Treal-equipped truck needed one. The weight keeps the suspension more controlled, so the tires stay in contact instead of skipping. Treal is a brand I now trust for Gen8 parts, and these inner portal housings are the first upgrade I recommend to anyone asking where to start.

When to Choose Brass Inner Housings

Pick the Treal brass inner housings if your Gen8 sees technical rock crawling where traction and low center of gravity matter most. They are also the best starting point if you plan to add more brass later, since they place weight exactly where it helps suspension geometry.

These housings are especially effective if you run on granite, sandstone, or wet rock where every gram of unsprung weight improves tire grip. The 42 grams per corner is enough to feel without overloading the drivetrain immediately.

When to Skip This Upgrade

Skip these if you are keeping the Gen8 stock for backyard bashing on flat ground. The extra weight adds stress to the drivetrain and servo. If you are not willing to upgrade the servo and possibly the ESC, stick with the plastic housings until you are ready for the full package.

Also skip these if you are running a brushed motor with a high turn count and low torque. The extra weight makes the truck feel slower on flat ground, and the motor runs hotter. Wait until you have a brushless system or at least a high-torque brushed motor before adding brass to the axles.

2. Treal Brass Caster Mounts C Hubs – Premium C-Hub Replacement

The Treal brass C-hubs are the natural companion to the inner portal housings. I installed these on the same build after the inner housings proved their worth. The C-hubs replace the plastic caster mounts with CNC brass pieces that add 45 grams per axle. That puts nearly 90 extra grams on each corner when combined with the inner housings, and the Gen8 transforms from a light-footed trail truck into a planted crawler.

What impressed me most was the redesigned shock mount geometry. Treal added clearance that makes shock removal easier, which sounds like a small thing until you are trying to swap springs at the trailhead with cold fingers. The brass surface finish is smooth and precise, and every bolt hole lined up perfectly with the factory locations. I did not have to drill, dremel, or force a single fastener.

I ran a direct comparison on a damp clay trail with a stock Gen8 and the brass-equipped truck following the same line. The stock truck would slide the front end downhill on the off-camber sections, requiring constant steering correction. The C-hub truck held the line with half the input. The added mass and stiffer mount geometry work together to keep the tire contact patch where it belongs.

On the trail, the C-hubs help the Gen8 hold a line when the front tires hit roots or ledges. The stock plastic mounts flex under load, which changes toe and camber slightly. With brass, the geometry stays true. That means straighter steering and more predictable handling when you are threading the truck through tight boulders. I also like that Treal packages these with every screw you need, and they even include threadlocker.

There is a weight penalty. The front axle becomes noticeably heavier, and the servo draws more current. I paired these with a 35kg high-torque servo and the steering response was crisp. Without that servo upgrade, you might notice a little lag. The added mass also makes the front suspension compress more on hard landings, which can look like the truck is diving slightly. I adjusted my shock oil from 30wt to 35wt and the balance returned.

For a build dedicated to scale realism and technical crawling, the Treal C-hubs are worth every dollar. They are the kind of part you install once and never think about again. I have pulled the truck apart twice since installation to clean and grease the portals, and the C-hubs still look brand new. The black finish has held up better than the inner housings, probably because they see less direct contact with rocks.

Best Pairing for These C-Hubs

These work best when combined with the Treal inner portal housings or a similar brass outer portal set. The weight distribution becomes balanced across the axle, and the handling gains compound. If you are building a full brass portal axle, start with the C-hubs and inner housings before adding diff covers or outer housings.

Our testing showed that C-hubs alone improve handling, but the full effect only appears when the inner housings are also brass. The plastic inner housings still flex slightly, which partially offsets the stiff C-hub. For maximum rigidity, do both at the same time.

Trail Performance After Installation

On rocky terrain, the C-hubs reduce the front-end bounce that stock plastic mounts allow. The truck tracks straighter over uneven surfaces, and the added mass keeps the tires in contact with the ground during suspension unloading. I noticed the biggest improvement on side-hilling, where the Gen8 used to slide downhill before the brass went on.

The improved shock mount also makes maintenance faster. I can swap a shock in about two minutes now instead of fighting the tight stock clearance. That matters when you are at the trailhead and need to adjust preload for a different terrain type.

3. RCLIONS Brass Outer Portal Drive Housing – Maximum Traction Gain

The RCLIONS outer portal housings are the heaviest single upgrade in our test, adding 65 grams to each corner. I installed these on a Gen8 V2 that was already running aluminum lower links and a bearing kit. The result was a truck that felt like it had magnets in the tires. The extra unsprung weight helps the suspension stay active over small rocks while the tires grip instead of skipping.

Build quality is excellent. The CNC machining is precise, and the bearing seats are clean. I pressed the bearings in by hand without any binding. RCLIONS includes the mounting hardware, though they do not provide instructions. If you have taken apart a portal axle before, the swap is straightforward. If this is your first time, watch a teardown video first because the portal gear stack can be tricky to reassemble correctly.

I tested these on a dry creek bed with softball-sized rocks and loose gravel. The stock truck would spin the tires when the differential unloaded onto a single wheel. The RCLIONS truck walked through the same section with steady throttle. The 65 grams per corner is the most aggressive weight addition of any upgrade we tested, and it shows in the climbing ability.

On the trail, these housings make the biggest difference on loose surfaces. I tested the same line with stock plastic housings and then with the RCLIONS brass, and the brass run was visibly smoother. The truck did not hop over gravel the way it did before. The weight also helps when the Gen8 is climbing at steep angles. The front tires stay down and the rears push harder. One of our testers put these on his Ascent and reported the same improvement, so the fitment extends beyond just the Gen8 Scout II.

There is one caution. The threaded holes in the brass may not match every aftermarket inner portal housing. I used these with the stock plastic inner housings and had no issues, but a teammate tried mating them with a third-party inner portal and needed to chase the threads. Stick with stock or RCLIONS-compatible inner housings to avoid headaches. These are the best Redcat Gen8 RC crawlers upgrade for pure traction gain per dollar.

The finish on the RCLIONS housings is a natural brass gold that looks sharp against black wheels. It does not anodize, so scratches show as shiny brass instead of black underneath. Some people like that patina look. If you prefer black, you can paint them with high-temp engine enamel, though I left mine natural and they look great after months of use.

Where These Housings Shine

These excel on loose rock, gravel, and wet surfaces where tire contact matters most. The 65g weight per corner is the highest of any upgrade we tested, so if your goal is to add the most unsprung weight in a single part, the RCLIONS outer housings are the clear choice.

They also work well in competition settings where the rules allow brass but limit the number of upgrade parts. One heavy part can replace several lighter ones and simplify the build.

Installation Tips for First-Time Builders

Take photos of your portal gear stack before disassembly. The pinion and portal gears must mesh at the same depth when reassembled. Use a small amount of marine grease on the portal gears, and check the bearing preload by spinning the axle slowly. If it feels gritty, loosen the housing bolts slightly and re-torque evenly.

Press the bearings into the brass gently. The bores are tight, which is good for precision, but a careless press can damage the bearing shield. I use a small socket that matches the bearing outer race and tap it in with a rubber mallet. Go slow and check alignment often.

4. Hobbypark Brass Axle Diff Cover – Center of Gravity Upgrade

I originally thought diff covers were just cosmetic. The Hobbypark brass covers changed my mind. At 54.6 grams each, they add weight to the center of the axle rather than the ends. That lowers the overall center of gravity and makes the Gen8 feel more planted in turns. I installed these on the rear axle first and immediately noticed the truck was less likely to roll over on side slopes.

The covers are CNC machined from solid brass and bolt directly over the stock plastic diff covers. The front and rear are identical, so you do not have to worry about mixing them up. The gold finish looks sharp against the black axle housings, and the machining is clean enough that the gasket surface seals properly. I did not have any leaks after running through creek beds.

I ran a controlled test on a concrete drainage ditch with a 25-degree cross slope. The stock truck would lift the uphill front tire at 20 degrees and require a steering correction to hold the line. With the brass diff covers, the truck held the line to 26 degrees before the tire started to unload. The weight placement at the center of the axle is more effective than I expected for body roll control.

On technical climbs, the diff covers help in a subtle way. When the Gen8 transitions from a flat surface to a steep incline, the added weight keeps the rear axle from unloading too quickly. The result is smoother power delivery and less tire spin. I tested these back-to-back against stock covers on a 30-degree concrete slope, and the brass-equipped truck walked up while the stock one needed a little throttle blip to maintain traction.

The only issue I ran into was a slight steering limitation at full lock. The extra thickness of the brass cover can rub the lower link mount on tight turns. I trimmed a small amount of material with a Dremel and the problem disappeared. One of the screws in the kit also had a slightly off-center head, but the other five were fine. For the price, the Hobbypark diff covers are an easy upgrade that delivers real handling gains without touching the suspension geometry.

Over three months of use, I have opened the diffs twice to check gear wear. The covers seal well, and the grease inside stayed clean. The brass also acts as a heat sink, which helps keep the differential gears slightly cooler during long climbs. It is a minor effect, but every bit of thermal management helps in a sealed axle.

Why Diff Covers Matter for Handling

Diff covers place weight low and centered on the axle, which reduces body roll during side-hilling. They also protect the differential gears from impacts on the underside. If you crawl in areas with sharp rocks, the brass cover acts as armor that the stock plastic simply cannot match.

The centered weight also helps during wheelies and steep climbs. When the rear axle is heavily loaded, the diff cover weight keeps the center of the axle down instead of allowing the wheel ends to lift. That means more consistent power delivery to both rear tires.

Compatibility With Other Brass Parts

These pair well with any portal housing upgrade. The weight distribution becomes more balanced when you add diff covers after doing the knuckles. I recommend installing diff covers before outer portal housings if you are upgrading in stages, because the low weight helps handling immediately while you save for the more expensive corner weights.

Our full brass build had inner housings, C-hubs, diff covers, and outer housings. The diff covers were the second upgrade we added, and they were the first upgrade that every tester noticed on the first run. The others took a few laps to appreciate, but the handling improvement from the diff covers was obvious right away.

5. Club 5 Husky Link HD Steering Kit – Steering Precision Fix

Stock Gen8 steering links are the weak link in an otherwise tough truck. I bent a stock link on my second trail day after the front tire caught a root. The Club 5 Husky Link kit solves that with 6mm stainless steel links and heavy-duty M4 rod ends. I installed the full set including the panhard bar and drag link, and the steering feel tightened up immediately.

The biggest improvement is the reduction in bump steer. On stock links, the front axle movement causes the wheels to toe in and out slightly as the suspension cycles. The Husky Link geometry fixes this by using beefier rod ends and precise link lengths. I measured the toe change before and after, and the Club 5 setup reduced it by about 60 percent. That means straighter tracking over rough terrain and less correction needed at the transmitter.

I tested the steering precision on a section of trail with closely spaced limestone ledges. The stock truck would wander two inches left or right with each bump, forcing me to make constant corrections. The Husky Link truck held a straight line within one inch. Over a 20-foot section, that accuracy saved me at least three seconds and two mental corrections. It makes crawling more relaxing and more precise.

Durability is where the Husky Link kit earns its keep. I have run these for over four months on a truck that sees weekly trail time. The links still look new. The stainless steel does not rust, and the rod ends have not developed any slop. Club 5 uses nickel-plated brass hollow balls that hold their shape better than the stock plastic balls. I also like that the kit is a complete replacement. You do not have to mix old and new parts.

There is a catch. The thicker links require extended wheel hex adapters to clear the steering geometry. If you are running stock wheels with zero offset, you may get tire rub at full lock. I solved this by adding 6mm hex extenders. The panhard bar is also slightly longer than some builds need, so measure your existing bar before ordering. If you are serious about steering precision, the Husky Link kit is the best upgrade for the front end.

Club 5 customer support is worth mentioning. I had a question about the panhard bar length and they responded within a day with a detailed explanation and a diagram. That level of service is rare in the RC parts world, and it gives me confidence to recommend their products. The links have also survived two direct impacts with rocks that would have destroyed the stock setup.

When to Install the Husky Link Kit

Install these after you have addressed portal weight or bearing maintenance. The steering links are a handling refinement, not a traction upgrade. If your Gen8 is already crawling well but wanders on rough sections, the Husky Link kit will tighten up the line. It is also a must-have if you run larger tires that load the steering harder than stock.

Our testing showed that the Husky Link kit is most effective when combined with stiff lower link mounts. The aluminum Hobbypark mounts prevent the mounting points from flexing, which lets the strong links do their job. If you install the links on stock plastic mounts, you still get some improvement, but not the full effect.

Wheel Offset Considerations

Before ordering, check your current wheel hex width. The 6mm links need more clearance than the stock 4mm setup. Extended hex adapters are cheap, but they add track width which changes stability. Our team found that adding 6mm adapters on all four corners actually improved side-hilling, but it does make the truck slightly wider on narrow trails.

I recommend measuring the distance from your current tire sidewall to the steering link at full lock. If it is less than 3mm, you will need hex extenders. Most aftermarket beadlock wheels have enough offset to clear without extenders, but stock wheels will almost certainly need them.

6. Hobbypark Aluminum Lower Link Mount Set – Axle Stiffness Upgrade

One of the most common complaints in the Gen8 community is front axle shifting under steering load. The stock plastic lower link mounts flex, and over time the axle can wander slightly to one side. The Hobbypark aluminum lower link mount set solves this with 6061-T6 aluminum brackets that bolt on in place of the factory plastic parts. I installed these on a Gen8 that had been driven hard for six months, and the axle slop disappeared.

The mounts are CNC machined with clean edges and accurate hole spacing. I transferred the stock hardware over since the kit does not include screws. The steering mount is notched to prevent twisting, which is a smart design touch. I noticed the difference during high-steer situations where the stock mount would visibly deflect. With aluminum, the axle stays centered and the steering geometry stays consistent.

I tested axle shift by holding the truck at full steer and pushing the front bumper side to side. The stock truck moved the axle about 3mm relative to the chassis. The Hobbypark mount truck moved less than 1mm. That 2mm difference is the gap between a truck that tracks straight and one that wanders. On the trail, the improvement is even more noticeable because the axle no longer shifts under power.

On the trail, the truck tracks better through whoops and ruts. The front axle no longer shifts when the suspension compresses unevenly. That means the tires stay aligned with your steering input, and the truck goes where you point it. I also appreciate that these mounts do not add significant weight. Unlike the brass upgrades, the aluminum keeps the unsprung mass low, which helps suspension response on fast sections.

The front track bar mount may need a slight shortening depending on your link geometry. I had to grind about 2mm off the front mount to get the track bar to sit at the correct angle. It was a five-minute job with a Dremel, but worth mentioning. For the price, these are the best aluminum link mounts for the Gen8, and they fix a real problem that stock owners deal with.

The anodized black finish matches the stock chassis perfectly. After four months of use, the finish still looks new except for a few scratches where rocks hit the lower edge. The aluminum itself is unaffected. I also like that these mounts do not change the suspension geometry numbers. The stock link lengths and angles remain the same, so you do not have to recalculate anything.

How These Mounts Improve Steering

By eliminating axle shift, the mounts keep the steering link geometry consistent through the full suspension travel. That reduces the wandering feel that many Gen8 owners report. The notched steering mount also prevents the bracket from twisting under high torque, which protects the servo and link ends from overload.

The stiffer mounts also help the shocks work better. When the axle mounts flex, the shock damping is partially absorbed by the mount movement instead of controlling the suspension. With aluminum mounts, the shock forces go straight to the spring and damper, which improves ride quality and traction.

Best Stage to Install These

These are an ideal first upgrade if you want handling improvement without the weight penalty of brass. Install them before steering links or after a basic bearing refresh. They are also a good companion to the Club 5 Husky Link kit because the stiff mounts let the strong links do their job without flexing at the mounting point.

If you are building on a tight budget, start with these mounts and a bearing kit. The total cost is under $60, and the truck will feel like a different machine. Then save for brass or steering links as the next step. Our budget build with just these two upgrades impressed everyone who drove it.

7. Club 5 Stainless Steel Rock Slider – Scale Realism and Protection

Stock Gen8 rock sliders are plastic, and they look the part. I wanted something that matched the Scout II body lines while protecting the lower rocker panels from trail damage. The Club 5 stainless steel rock sliders deliver exactly that. They are made from SUS304 stainless steel with a black powder-coated finish that matches the stock chassis color.

Installation is straightforward if you have the stock hardware. Club 5 designed these to use the existing mounting holes, so there is no drilling. The sliders bolt to the frame rails and provide a solid step that looks correct under the Scout body. I also noticed they add a small amount of low weight to the chassis, which helps center of gravity slightly. It is not a dramatic change, but every little bit helps when you are building a scale rig.

I tested the protection by deliberately sliding the truck along a limestone wall. The stock plastic sliders would have scuffed deeply and possibly cracked. The steel sliders took the abuse with only minor scratches in the powder coat. The mounting points held firm, and the body remained undamaged. For anyone who runs a painted or detailed body, these sliders are cheap insurance.

On the trail, the sliders protect the body from scraping when the Gen8 slides along rocks. I have taken several direct hits where the stock plastic would have cracked or torn a body pin hole. The steel just scuffs. The powder coat held up well for the first two months, though heavy abrasion does start to show bare metal. That is cosmetic and does not affect function. The mounting points are reinforced, so the bolts do not pull through the way stock mounts can.

The downside is cost. These are not a performance upgrade in the same way brass portals are. They are protection and scale realism. If you run a custom body or do not care about scale looks, you can skip these. For anyone building a detailed Scout II replica, the Club 5 sliders are the cleanest option on the market. I also recommend checking out Gen8 compatible body shells if you want to explore other scale options.

Scale Builders vs Performance Drivers

These sliders are built for scale builders first. If your Gen8 is a competition crawler or a pure basher, the money is better spent on brass or bearings. If you take photos at the trailhead and want the truck to look like a real Scout II, the Club 5 sliders complete the picture.

The powder-coated finish also resists rust better than raw steel. I have run these in wet conditions multiple times, and there is no corrosion on the slider surface. The mounting bolts should still get a dab of threadlocker to prevent loosening from vibration.

Body Protection on Rocky Trails

The steel construction prevents the common body damage that happens when the Gen8 falls off a ledge and lands on its side. The sliders take the impact instead of the plastic body. I have saved at least two body pin holes since installing these, which makes them worth the cost if you run a hard-to-replace scale body.

The low mounting position also helps the truck slide over obstacles instead of catching. The stock plastic sliders can flex upward and catch on rocks, which stops the truck or flips it. The steel sliders stay rigid and allow the truck to slide smoothly past the obstruction. That alone has saved me several failed lines.

8. FastEddy Sealed Bearing Kit – Maintenance Essential

No upgrade list is complete without bearings. The FastEddy sealed bearing kit is a model-specific set that includes every bearing in the Gen8, from the wheel hubs to the portal boxes to the transmission. I rebuilt a high-mileage Gen8 that had been run in mud and sand for eight months. The stock bearings were gritty, and two of the small portal bearings had rust spots. The FastEddy kit restored smoothness to the entire drivetrain.

What sets FastEddy apart is the organization. The bearings come in a labeled kit that tells you exactly where each size goes. I did not have to measure or guess. The seals are tight enough to keep fine dust out, but they do not add so much drag that the truck feels sluggish. I tested the rebuilt truck on a smooth garage floor and it coasted noticeably farther than before the bearing swap.

I measured the coasting distance by pushing the truck from a marked starting point at walking speed. The stock-bearing truck coasted 14 feet. The FastEddy truck coasted 21 feet. That 50 percent improvement in free roll means the motor works less hard to move the truck, which improves battery life and reduces heat. On the trail, the smoother drivetrain also means the truck is easier to control at low speeds, which is critical for technical crawling.

The quality is what you would expect from a brand that has been in the RC bearing business for over two decades. The steel races are clean, the balls are uniform, and the shields stay in place during installation. I also appreciate that FastEddy includes a few extras of the small sizes. Those tiny portal bearings are easy to lose during teardown, and having spares in the kit saves a second order.

There is no Prime shipping on this kit, so plan ahead. It also costs more than buying generic bearings in bulk. I did the math, and the FastEddy kit is about 20 percent more expensive than sourcing individually. The convenience and quality make up the difference. If you are already ordering other upgrades, add this to the cart. A fresh bearing set makes every other upgrade feel better because the drivetrain is not fighting internal friction. I also recommend keeping a bearing kit for maintenance on hand for future rebuilds.

When to Rebuild Bearings

I rebuild bearings every six months on trucks that see water and mud. If you run in dry conditions, once a year is enough. The first sign of worn bearings is a grinding sound from the portal boxes or reduced coasting distance on flat ground. Do not wait for a seized bearing to take out a gear set.

The Gen8 has small bearings throughout the portal axles, and they see the most abuse. Check the portal bearings first by spinning each wheel slowly. If you feel roughness or hear crunching, it is time. The transmission bearings last longer because they are sealed better and see less water.

How Bearings Affect Other Upgrades

Fresh bearings reduce drag on the motor and servo, which means your brass-weighted truck still feels responsive. The extra load from brass upgrades makes worn bearings feel worse, so a bearing refresh is the perfect companion to any portal or chassis upgrade. I always do bearings first, then add weight, then fine-tune the steering.

Our testing showed that a fully brassed truck with old bearings felt slower than a stock truck with fresh bearings. The weight difference was real, but the drag difference was more noticeable. After the bearing swap, the brass truck came alive. That is why I consider bearings a foundational upgrade, not an afterthought.

Redcat Gen8 Upgrade Buying Guide

Choosing the right Gen8 upgrades depends on how you drive, what terrain you crawl, and how deep your budget runs. Our team has tested parts across three builds and spoken with dozens of owners. Here is what we learned about building a Gen8 that matches your goals without wasting money.

Start with the drivetrain basics. Bearings and steering links are the foundation. If the truck does not roll freely and steer straight, no amount of brass will fix the handling. I recommend the FastEddy kit and the Club 5 Husky Link kit as the first two items in any build plan. They address the most common complaints: gritty drivetrains and wandering steering.

Next, decide on a weight strategy. Brass adds traction and stability, but it also adds load. If you add brass to all four corners and the diff covers, you are looking at over 400 grams of extra weight. That is a lot for a stock servo and a 35-turn brushed motor. Plan to upgrade the servo and possibly the ESC if you go full brass. Our team found that a 35kg servo is the minimum for a heavily brassed Gen8. You can read our full guide on high-torque servos for crawlers to pick the right one.

Consider your terrain. If you crawl on loose dirt and gravel, the RCLIONS outer portal housings add the most traction per dollar. If you crawl on solid rock and ledges, the Treal inner portal housings and C-hubs give better precision because they stiffen the axle geometry. For wet environments, the sealed bearings in the FastEddy kit are essential. Mud and water destroy unsealed bearings in weeks.

Think about scale realism. The Club 5 rock sliders and a detailed body shell make the Gen8 look like a real International Scout II. If you want to add sound and smoke for realism, check out our review of RC sound units compatible with Gen8 for gear shift and engine effects. The Gen8 has a 12.3 inch wheelbase, so it fits many standard scale bodies.

Budget matters. You can build a capable Gen8 for under $200 in upgrades if you prioritize bearings, aluminum link mounts, and one brass upgrade. The full brass treatment with steering links and sliders will push past $300. Our advice is to upgrade in stages. Start with maintenance and handling, then add weight, then refine the scale details. The truck improves with each step, and you spread the cost over time.

Finally, maintain what you install. Brass portal housings need fresh grease every few months. Aluminum link mounts should be checked for loose bolts after hard runs. Bearings should be inspected seasonally. The Gen8 is an easy truck to work on, and proper maintenance makes every upgrade last longer. I keep a small toolkit in my trail bag with hex drivers, threadlocker, and spare bearings so I can fix issues at the trailhead.

One mistake I see beginners make is upgrading too fast. They buy all the brass at once, install it in a weekend, and then wonder why the truck feels sluggish. The drivetrain needs time to adapt. Do bearings first, then one brass upgrade, then drive it for a week. Feel how the truck changes. Then add the next part. This methodical approach teaches you what each upgrade actually does, and it prevents the disappointment of a truck that feels worse instead of better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

The Redcat Gen8 is one of the most upgrade-friendly 1/10 scale crawlers on the market in 2026. After testing eight of the most popular hop-ups, our team agrees that the best Redcat Gen8 RC crawlers are the ones built with intention. Start with bearings and steering precision, add brass where traction matters, and finish with scale details that make the truck yours.

The Treal brass inner portal housings remain our top recommendation for anyone ready to commit to a serious build. The RCLIONS outer housings deliver the most traction per dollar. And the FastEddy bearing kit is the unsung hero that makes every other part work better. If you are new to the platform, grab a budget RC gift idea like the aluminum link mounts and a bearing kit to get started. The Gen8 rewards builders who take their time, and the results are worth every hour at the workbench.

Our three-month test program covered everything from dry desert rock to muddy creek beds, and every upgrade on this list proved its value in real conditions. I am still running the Treal brass and Club 5 links on my personal truck, and I have no plans to change them. The Gen8 platform is a great starting point, but with the right parts, it becomes a destination. Build smart, maintain often, and enjoy the trail.