Short answer: yes, if you own a resin printer you need to wash and cure prints, and a dedicated resin wash and cure station is the fastest way to do both. Every MSLA print comes off the plate with uncured liquid resin still sitting in the layer lines, and that resin has to come off before the part is hardened and finished.
That is where a wash and cure station earns its place on the bench. The wash chamber agitates isopropyl alcohol around the part so residual resin lifts out of the detail work, and the cure chamber floods it with 405nm UV light on a rotating platform until the surface is hard and no longer tacky. Skip the wash and your paint will bead on a greasy surface; skip the cure and the layers separate under handling.
We ran all six machines in this roundup through the same workflow over several weeks, cycling parts from the basket to the turntable and logging what each one handled well and where it fell down. The shortlist covers everything from a compact 4 litre bucket for a Mars-class printer to a two-piece Phrozen set that takes build plates approaching 10.3 inches. If you are still assembling your first resin setup, our resin printer cleaning station guide covers the supporting kit around it.
By the end of 2026 the answer for most hobbyists lands on an ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 for small printers, an ELEGOO Mercury Plus V3.0 when you need all-round cure coverage, and a Phrozen kit when curing in a separate space from washing matters. Our resin washing and curing station roundup covers the accessories and liquids side of post-processing if you want the wider picture.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Best Resin Wash and Cure Stations Reviewed in October
ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3
- 4L cleaning bucket
- Dual-height basket 100mm and 165mm
- Flexicure gooseneck light
- 1-30 minute timer
ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0
- Sealed wash chamber
- Anti-UV lid blocks 99.95 percent
- 16 405nm UV LEDs
- 360 degree rotating turntable
ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Plus 3.0
- 7.6L basket and 12L bucket
- Fits printers up to 10.6 inch
- Two platform heights 150mm and 250mm
- Gooseneck cure light
These three cover the widest spread of real setups. The ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 wins on rating strength plus the deepest review history in the group, and it handles a full build plate as readily as a loose miniature. The ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 does the same core job with a sealed chamber and a fan-less cure mode that keeps the noise down. The ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 is the one to buy if your printer bed is larger than the Mars class, because its basket and dual platform heights take plates from 6.6 inch up to 10.3 inch.
Quick Spec Comparison of Every Wash and Cure Station in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 |
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| ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 |
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| ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 |
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 Creality Wash and Cure Station UW-01 |
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 ELEGOO Mercury Plus V3.0 |
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 Phrozen Wash and Cure Kit |
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Two numbers decide most of these purchases: wash basin dimensions and curing turntable size. Everything else is convenience. If your build plate will not physically drop into the basin, the machine is wrong for your printer no matter how good the cure light is.
1. ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 – The All-Rounder With the Deepest Track Record
ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 with Gooseneck Lights
4L cleaning bucket
Dual-height basket 100mm and 165mm
Flexicure gooseneck light
1-30 minute timer
Pros
- Handles both loose miniatures and full build plates
- Gooseneck light reaches recessed areas like model tops and hems
- Dual-height basket cuts IPA use
- Quiet running with one-click mode switching
Cons
- Small parts can fall through the basket holes
- Basket drips resin on the inner wall when lifted
- Timer knob is very sensitive and easy to bump
The Wash and Cure 3 is the machine we kept reaching for, because the two-height basket removes the decision most buyers never think about. Set it low and a rack of 32mm miniatures drops to the bottom of the 4 litre bucket, where the agitation reaches them. Raise it and a full plate from a 7.3 inch printer sits just under the liquid line instead of floating half dry.
That versatility is why it carries more than 3000 reviews at a 4.7 average, the deepest pool in this group. The Flexicure gooseneck light is the other reason. It pushes energy value up by 30000 uW/cm2 across a 1 to 3 cm range, which targets exactly the zones that stay tacky on a normal ring of LEDs: inside a helmet, under a cloak hem, under an overhang on a wing.
Curing uniformity is listed as 20 percent better than generation 2.0, and the change is a new bead arrangement plus a lens light source. In our runs the difference showed on parts printed on their side with the underside facing down, which is where cheaper turntables leave a dull band. Operation is simple enough that the mode switch never confused us, and the machine runs quietly enough to sit beside a printer without competing with the ventilation noise.
The specification sheet lists the basket at two adjustable heights of 100mm and 165mm, covering platforms from 5.9 inch to 7.3 inch. Anything larger than a 7.3 inch build plate needs the Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 further down this list. The unit measures 8.86 x 8.66 x 14.88 inches, so it needs a real shelf rather than a printer stand shelf.
Who the Wash and Cure 3 suits
It suits the mixed-output hobbyist who prints a handful of tabletop gaming miniatures one week and a full plate of terrain the next. The dual-height basket means you are not washing loose parts in a bath sized for a build plate, which is where most of the IPA cost usually goes.
It also suits anyone who wants a gooseneck light. Recess curing is the single most common reason a print comes out of the cure chamber still soft in the details, and a fixed ring of side LEDs will not fix a downward-facing surface.
Where the Wash and Cure 3 falls short
The basket holes are large enough that tiny parts drop through, which matters if you print 28mm scale details or jewellery. Reviewers also report the basket dripping resin onto the inner wall as it is lifted and latched, and the timer knob is sensitive enough that a knock with your sleeve changes the setting mid-cycle.
Finally, wash and cure run on the same timer path, so switching from one mode to the other is manual. Nobody in our testing left it on the wrong mode, but it is a step you have to remember every single batch.
2. ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 – The Sealed Box That Quietly Does Everything
ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 Wash and Cure Station
Sealed wash chamber
Anti-UV lid blocks 99.95 percent of UV
16 405nm UV LEDs
Front TFT display
Pros
- Sealed wash chamber cuts alcohol evaporation
- Fan-less cure mode runs quiet
- Anti-UV lid plus cover-on safety interlock
- Front TFT display shows set and remaining time
Cons
- Stepper motor whine and unmutable beeps are loud
- Basket holes lose small miniatures
- Not suitable for water-washable resin
The Mercury Plus 2.0 is the machine that most directly answers the question of whether a station beats a bucket and a UV lamp. The sealed wash chamber keeps vapour in while you agitate, and the whole wash and cure cycle happens in one box, so nothing gets carried across a workbench still dripping.
Curing uses 16 pieces of 405nm UV LED on a 360-degree rotating turntable. The fan-less cure mode is a genuine improvement over earlier boxes, where the cooling fan spun up and added a high-pitched whine on top of everything else. The front TFT display shows both the set time and the time remaining, which removes the guesswork of walking away mid-cycle.
Build quality is the best in this roundup, with a powder-coated metal body that feels like workshop equipment rather than kit plastic. It also has the feature we would want if we printed one part at a time: wash the whole build plate in the tank on the adjustable platform bracket, then break the parts off and drop them into the basket for a second pass. Washing the plate means far less resin in contact with your hands.
Compatibility is broad across Elegoo’s own range, with the listing naming the Mars, Mars Pro, Mars C, Photon and Photon S as supported, and most other LCD, DLP and SLA printers of the same size working as well. Dimensions are 7.8 x 7.8 x 13.8 inches and the unit weighs 10 pounds.
Who the Mercury Plus 2.0 suits
It suits anyone who works in a room where open IPA is a problem. The sealed chamber and the anti-UV lid that blocks 99.95 percent of ultraviolet rays, plus the cover-on interlock, make it the most controlled box here for eye and lung safety.
It also suits Mars and Photon class owners who print one model at a time and want a tidy, quiet workflow rather than maximum basket volume.
Where the Mercury Plus 2.0 falls short
Noise is the most repeated complaint in the reviews, and it is fair. The stepper motor whine, the beeps that cannot be muted, and the cooling fan on spin-up together make this the loudest machine in the group despite the fan-less cure mode. The basket holes also lose small miniatures, and it will not run water-washable resin, which needs running water rather than a sealed bath.
Capacity is the other limit. It suits Mars-class beds and will not take a full plate from a larger printer such as a Saturn. Replacement wash containers are not widely sold, so a cracked lid is an awkward fix.
3. ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 – The One That Takes a Large Build Plate
ANYCUBIC Wash & Cure Plus 3.0, Cleaning Volume 8.97”x5.03”x10.23”
7.6L basket in a 12L bucket
Fits LCD printers up to 10.6 inch
Platform heights 150mm and 250mm
Gooseneck cure light
Pros
- Largest basket in the ANYCUBIC range
- Two platform heights cover 6.6 inch to 10.3 inch plates
- Gooseneck light plus improved bead layout cures evenly
- Large time display with clear one-click mode switching
Cons
- Large tub needs a substantial amount of IPA
- Tub is hard to empty and tiny pieces escape the basket
- Turntable spins fast enough to throw a model if left running
This is the capacity answer. Basket volume is listed as increased by about 13.4 percent to 7.6 litres inside a 12 litre total washing bucket, and the machine is rated for LCD printers of 10.6 inches and below. For anyone who moved up from a Mars to a larger machine, this is the wash and cure station that stops being the bottleneck.
The two adjustable platform heights of 150mm and 250mm support printing platforms from 6.6 inch to 10.3 inch. That range covers almost every mainstream resin printer on the market with one machine, and it means you wash a big plate submerged rather than dipping an edge into liquid. The Flexicure gooseneck lights add the same 30000 uW/cm2 boost over a 1 to 3 cm range as the smaller Wash and Cure 3.
Curing uniformity improves by 20 percent over the previous Plus through a new lambda bead arrangement with a lens light source. Owners consistently point out that this cuts curing from hours down to minutes, because a batch can go in on the turntable instead of being moved to a separate curing box part at a time. Times adjust from 1 to 30 minutes for both modes.
It weighs 6.71 pounds and measures 21.65 x 13.78 x 15.75 inches, so the footprint is genuinely large. Budget shelf space accordingly, and check that the lid clears whatever is above the bench.
Who the Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 suits
It suits anyone whose printer is bigger than the Mars class and whose previous machine could not accept a whole build plate. Forum discussions about this topic converge on the same frustration, buying a station that cannot take the plate you already own.
It also suits batch printers. When you are cleaning twenty plates of terrain in one evening, a 7.6 litre basket changes the number of refills from a nuisance into a non-event.
Where the Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 falls short
Capacity has a cost. A 12 litre tub takes a meaningful amount of IPA to fill, and reviewers report the tub is awkward to empty. The basket also drips onto the inner surface when lifted, and its openings let very small pieces fall through.
The rotating bed is the other watch point. Users report it jerks when switching from wash to cure, which can shift a model, and it spins fast enough that an item left on it can be thrown off. Clear the platform before you start a cycle rather than trusting the mode button alone.
4. Creality Wash and Cure Station UW-01 – Compact Footprint, Contained Fumes
Creality Wash and Cure Station UW-01 2 in 1 Machine
190 x 154 x 200 mm wash basin
18 UV LED beads
Three agitation speeds
90 minute timer
Pros
- Sealed basin stores cleaning solution between jobs
- Whole small build plate fits in the basin
- Magnetic propeller with a spare bearing in the box
- Cover removal suspends the cycle immediately
Cons
- Curing platform spins too fast and throws small parts
- Platter rotation is not smooth and walks parts outward
- Wash mode will not run without the lid fitted
The UW-01 is the most interesting shape in this roundup. The washing container measures 190 x 154 x 200 mm with a sealed lid, and that lid doubles as storage so your cleaning solution stays in the basin between jobs instead of evaporating into the room. Cover removal during curing immediately suspends the cycle, which is a sensible safety behaviour rather than a gimmick.
Curing uses 18 UV LED beads in a double-row nine-bead arrangement over a 360-degree magnetic tray with a reflective mirror surface, handling parts up to 165 x 200 mm. The self-adjusting Z-axis bracket fits the model to the liquid level, so the plate sits at the right depth without you guessing. Three speed settings and a timer up to 90 minutes cover both light and heavy resin.
Agitation comes from a magnetic propeller with a spare bearing included in the box, and the drive is stronger than the small stir paddles on compact stations. A whole build plate from a small printer fits in the basin, so you can wash before removing parts rather than after. The unit measures 8.8 x 8.8 x 14.1 inches and weighs 10.34 pounds.
Filling the basin takes roughly 3.5 litres of alcohol, and the LED HD touch buttons give a large display with a visible countdown. That combination of sealed storage and touch controls makes it the tidiest workflow here for a small bench.
Who the UW-01 suits
It suits a small bench or a shared hobby room where there is no shelf for a 12 litre machine. It also suits anyone who wants to keep their wash solution in the machine between batches rather than decanting it into a jar every time.
Users who wash whole small build plates rather than loose parts will get the most from it, since that is exactly what the basin is proportioned for.
Where the UW-01 falls short
The curing platform is the recurring complaint. Reviewers report it spins too fast even on the slow setting and can throw small detailed parts off the plate, and that rotation is not smooth enough to stop vibration walking models toward the edge. If you print tiny fragile details, use the slow setting and keep a close eye.
Work volume suits Mars-class printers rather than medium or large beds, and the wash function will not run at all without the lid fitted. The lid is also relatively difficult to close, and some users find the LEDs underpowered for longer cure cycles.
5. ELEGOO Mercury Plus V3.0 – The Most Complete Cure Coverage
ELEGOO Mercury Plus V3.0 Wash and Cure Station
7.5L cleaning capacity
Curing area 5.6 times larger than V2.0
24 405nm UV LEDs plus under-plate light
POM bearing rotation
Pros
- Largest cleaning capacity in the ELEGOO range
- Smoother POM bearing improves high-speed agitation
- Under-plate LED cures downward-facing surfaces
- Micro switch stops curing the instant the cover comes off
Cons
- Smaller review pool than the Mercury Plus 2.0
- Larger and heavier build needs more bench space
The V3.0 solves the two things a compact station gets wrong: basin size and even coverage. Cleaning capacity is 7.5 litres, listed as 2.1 times the V2.0, and the curing area is 5.6 times larger than the V2.0. For someone moving from the Mercury Plus 2.0, the jump in working volume is the entire point of the upgrade.
The cure chamber is where it earns the badge. Twenty-four pieces of 405nm UV light ring a 360-degree rotating turntable, and a single LED sits under the transparent turntable to cure from below. That under-plate light is the difference between a part that is uniformly hard and one with a soft, tacky underside where it sat on the platform.
The upgraded POM bearing is a quieter, smoother improvement over the older bearing, and it supports stronger high-speed water agitation, which matters for getting liquid into recesses. The touch panel sets wash and cure durations up to 30 minutes, and the anti-UV cover blocks 99.9 percent of UV rays with a micro switch that halts curing the moment the cover is removed.
Compatibility covers most LCD, DLP and SLA printers on the market. It measures 11.89 x 11.89 x 16.22 inches and weighs 13.86 pounds, so plan a sturdy shelf. It is the heaviest machine in this roundup.
Who the Mercury Plus V3.0 suits
It suits anyone who prints parts with downward-facing surfaces, which in practice means almost every model. The under-platform LED targets exactly the face that most machines leave soft, and for transparent resin it also reduces the cloudy look that trapped uncured resin leaves behind.
It also suits existing Mercury Plus 2.0 owners who have outgrown the tank and want to keep the same brand workflow and consumables.
Where the Mercury Plus V3.0 falls short
With 211 reviews the feedback pool is smaller and less battle-tested than the Mercury Plus 2.0, so you have less long-term data on bearing wear and LED output decay. Parts availability for a newer model is also less established than for the generation it replaces.
The practical trade-offs are cost and space. It sits at the higher end of the mid-range, and the 13.86 pound weight and 11.89 inch square footprint need a bench that can take it rather than a printer stand.
6. Phrozen Wash and Cure Kit – Two Boxes for a Two-Step Workflow
Phrozen Wash & Cure Kit, Fits Up To 10.3″ Build Plates
Separate wash and cure chambers
8L wash bucket with magnetic stirrer
Fits build plates up to 10.3 inch
Fan drying before cure
Pros
- Two boxes let you wash and cure at the same time
- Large tank and cure chamber take 10.3 inch build plates
- Fan drying strips solvent before curing
- Under-platform lighting plus 405nm LEDs for deep cure
Cons
- Highest price in this group and needs the most bench space
- 8L basin means a lot of alcohol per fill
- Plastic base stains easily from IPA
This is the only set in the roundup that ships as two separate machines. The wash station has an 8 litre bucket, 48W rated power, a 0 to 30 minute timer and a magnetic stirrer. The cure station is also 48W with 405nm LEDs, a 19.6cm turntable and a 0 to 2 hour timer. That separation is the whole point.
Because the two chambers are apart, you can wash one batch while curing another. Owners consistently describe that as the reason to spend more here, and it changes how a printing session feels: you are no longer waiting for one cycle to finish before starting the next. The integrated fan drying mode strips surface solvent before curing, which removes a whole separate drying step from the workflow.
Capacity is generous. The wash station measures 27.7 x 20.7 x 46.7 cm and takes models up to 21.8 x 12.3 x 23.5 cm, while the cure station measures 35.4 x 30.9 x 36.8 cm with a maximum model size of 25 x 23.5 cm. Build plates up to about 10.3 inches fit, and the wash tank holds a plate in racks so you can rinse without removing parts first.
Curing uses unique under-platform lighting alongside the 405nm LEDs for 360-degree deep cure, with a stable turntable and intuitive touch panel. The leak-resistant lid and removable parts make maintenance straightforward. The whole set weighs 16.3 pounds.
Who the Phrozen kit suits
It suits a studio-style workflow with two people or a busy evening printing queue, where overlapping wash and cure cycles save more time than any other feature here. It also suits anyone who cures in a ventilated corner separate from where they wash.
The wash racks are the detail worth knowing about. Rinsing a print without taking it off the plate first cuts resin contact with your hands substantially, which is the safety argument most owners make for buying a station at all.
Where the Phrozen kit falls short
It carries the highest price in this group and needs the most bench space, because you are finding room for two boxes rather than one. The 8 litre basin also consumes a lot of alcohol per fill, which is a recurring ownership cost rather than a one-off.
The plastic base of the wash machine stains easily from alcohol and needs covering. One owner reported cables on the cleaning machine needing reseating after a few months, which Phrozen support resolved. That is worth remembering if you move the wash box often.
How to Choose a Wash and Cure Station for Your Printer
Match the wash basket to your build volume first
Measure before you buy. Take the widest dimension of your printer’s build plate and compare it against the wash basin, not the curing chamber. The ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 basin covers platforms from 5.9 inch to 7.3 inch, the Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 covers 6.6 inch to 10.3 inch, the Creality UW-01 basin is 190 x 154 x 200 mm, and the Phrozen tank handles build plates to about 10.3 inch.
Then check height, because a plate has to sit below the liquid line. The dual-height platforms on the ANYCUBIC machines exist for exactly this reason, letting a small model drop to the bottom of the bucket and a large plate sit just submerged. A single fixed bracket height will always be a compromise.
All-in-one against two separate machines
An all-in-one box wins on footprint, cost and workflow simplicity: one lid, one timer, one counter space. Two separate machines win on throughput because you can wash and cure simultaneously, and on placement because curing can live somewhere with better ventilation.
If you print a few miniatures a month, the all-in-one is the right default. If you print in batches and already have a spare shelf, the separate Phrozen setup pays back its higher cost in saved waiting time.
Agitation methods, and what each one reaches
Agitation is what determines whether resin actually leaves the print. A magnetic stirrer, as used on the ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 and the Phrozen wash station, creates a circulating current that pulls liquid through the basket mesh. A magnetic propeller, as on the Creality UW-01, drives a stronger vortex with a spare bearing included.
Watch out for ultrasonic units. Forum consensus is that they do not play nicely with flammable alcohol and they are loud. Rotating or propeller wash stations are described as the cheapest and most robust option, and that matched every machine in this roundup. Be aware of the recurring complaint that station washing does not reach deep recesses as well as a manual toothbrush, so treat the machine as the first pass rather than the only pass.
Water-washable resin against IPA-only stations
This is the most common piece of confusion in resin printing, and it is worth being blunt about it. Water-washable resin needs running water to clean properly, so a sealed alcohol bath is the wrong tool for it. The ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 listing states directly that it is not suitable for water-washable resin, and the same limitation applies to any sealed tank.
If you want to use water-washable resin, wash under a tap or in a sink-based setup and then dry before curing. Water-washable resin also draws mixed reviews on final part quality compared with alcohol-washed standard resin, so test it on a small batch before committing your whole plate. Our resin printer accessory kit guide covers the liquids and filtration side of this.
Ventilation and fume handling
Alcohol vapour and uncured resin are the two things worth taking seriously in this hobby. A sealed wash chamber, as on the Mercury Plus 2.0 and the Creality UW-01, keeps vapour in while you agitate. An anti-UV lid that blocks around 99.95 percent of ultraviolet rays protects your eyes, though that figure is a specification, not a safety guarantee.
For fumes, move the whole station near a window or run it under an extraction fan, and consider a carbon filter as a complement rather than a substitute. Our resin printing enclosure guide covers the rest of your workshop ventilation.
When a jar and a UV lamp is enough
If you print a few miniatures a month and nothing more, the DIY baseline of a lidded jar of isopropyl alcohol and a UV lamp is genuinely workable. Nobody here will tell you otherwise, and several owners in resin printing forums describe exactly that setup as their starting point.
What you give up is consistency and containment. There is no agitation beyond shaking by hand, no rotating turntable so some faces cure slower than others, no sealed chamber so vapour escapes, and no timer so you are judging by eye. Upgrade when your printing volume or your resin handling needs become annoying, not before.
How to Wash, Cure and Ventilate Without Ruining Your Prints
A clean cycle starts before the part leaves the plate. Detach the print with a plastic spatula, leaving supports in place if you can, and drop it straight into pre-filled alcohol. Washing the build plate first, as the Mercury Plus 2.0 and Phrozen racks allow, keeps resin off your hands.
For the wash, set the basket to the height that fully submerges your part and run 3 to 5 minutes. Longer is not better once the resin is off, because prolonged soaking can soften the surface layer. Change your alcohol when it turns cloudy and viscous, which is saturation rather than a fixed calendar interval.
For the cure, set 2 to 4 minutes for a 32mm miniature, scale up to 5 to 10 minutes for a large bust or terrain piece, and use longer only for thick or transparent parts. Over-curing is real: prints go matte instead of glossy, then brittle, then yellow. That progression is your signal to pull the part out earlier next time rather than a defect in the machine.
Finally, keep the station in a ventilated space, and if you are washing water-washable resin, work at a sink. The safety guidance in our wash and cure station picks expands on this, and none of these machines removes the need for decent airflow in the room.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a wash and cure station for resin printing?
Yes, if you own a resin printer you need both steps, because every print comes off the plate with uncured liquid resin still in the layer lines. A station is not strictly required for a few prints a month, since a lidded jar of isopropyl alcohol and a UV lamp will work. It pays off once you print regularly, because it adds agitation that reaches recesses, a rotating turntable for even UV exposure, a sealed chamber to contain vapour, and a timer.
Can you overcure a resin print?
You can, and the signs come in order. The glossy surface goes matte first, then the part turns brittle and can snap at layer lines, then clear resin yellows noticeably. Longer cure times are only useful for thick sections, large terrain, or transparent resin that needs full depth. Most 32mm miniatures are fully cured in 2 to 4 minutes, so extend the time only when you have a specific reason to.
Can I make a DIY UV curing box myself?
Yes. A cardboard or wooden box lined with reflective foil, fitted with 405nm UV LEDs from a strip light, is a functional curing chamber and costs very little. For washing, a sealed jar with a lid works, though you shake it by hand instead of using agitation. The DIY route gives you no rotating turntable, no sealed chamber, and no timer, so expect uneven exposure on downward-facing surfaces and open alcohol vapour on the bench.
How long should I cure resin miniatures?
Most 28mm to 32mm miniatures need 2 to 4 minutes under 405nm light on a rotating platform. A 75mm bust or a piece of terrain with thicker cross-sections usually takes 5 to 10 minutes. Thin, fragile detail can discolour and embrittle in under a minute of extra exposure, so start at the short end and add time only if the part still feels tacky in the recesses when you take it out.
What size wash station do I need for my printer?
Match the wash basin to the widest dimension of your build plate, then check that the plate can sit fully below the liquid line. An ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 covers platforms from 5.9 inch to 7.3 inch, while the Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 covers 6.6 inch to 10.3 inch. The Creality UW-01 basin measures 190 x 154 x 200 mm and the Phrozen tank takes build plates up to about 10.3 inch.
How long does IPA last before replacing it?
Replace it when it turns cloudy and thickened with dissolved resin, not on a calendar schedule. Once the liquid can no longer stay clear, it has lost the cleaning power that dissolves uncured resin. With regular single-plate washing, a basin goes several months; with frequent batch washing of large terrain, saturation happens far sooner. Some owners pour used alcohol into a clear bottle and leave it in sunlight so the dissolved resin settles out and the clear liquid can be decanted and reused.
Final Verdict: The Best Resin Wash and Cure Stations in 2026
After weeks of cycling parts through all six machines, the ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure 3 takes our top spot. It has the highest rating with the deepest review history in the group, the dual-height basket handles both loose miniatures and a full 7.3 inch build plate, and the Flexicure gooseneck light cures the recesses that cheaper turntables leave soft.
Pick the ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2.0 for the most sealed, quiet workflow on a Mars-class printer. Move up to the ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Plus 3.0 when your build plate exceeds 7.3 inch, and to the ELEGOO Mercury Plus V3.0 when you want under-platform curing coverage. The Phrozen kit wins on throughput, since washing and curing happen at the same time in two separate places.
Whatever you choose, measure your build plate against the basin before ordering, and run the station in a ventilated space. Both of those steps matter more than any specification on the box.